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DIARY OF A TRAVELING
PREACHER >>
By Indradyumna Swami
Volume VII, Chapter 19
"Fruit of Vrindavan"
Vrindavan, India
11/10/06 - 25/10/06
Dhruva das and I arrived in Delhi after our short
trip to Bangladesh and took a taxi to Vrindavan. Though I have been
to Vrindavan many times in the last 35 years, coming into that transcendental
abode is always a fresh and exhilarating experience. I wanted to
enter Vrindavan in the proper frame of mind, so during the three-hour
drive I started to read from one of my favorite books, Vrindavan-Mahimamrita.
grnanti suka sarikah sucaritani radhapates
tad eka paritustaye tru latah sadotphullitah
saramsi kamalotpaladibhirdhusca yatra sriyam
tad utsava krte manah smara tad eva vrndavanam
"Always meditate on the blissful abode of
Vrindavan, where parrots are constantly singing the nectarean characteristics
of Radha and Krishna and where trees, creepers, flowers, fruits,
and twigs increase the beauty of the land. They are always joyful
because they are fully engaged in the service of the Lord of Radha.
May I always meditate on such an enchanting abode of ecstasy."
[Sri Vrindavana-Mahimamrita, by Srila Prabhodhananda
Saraswati, 17 sataka, verse 97]
The next day, we began our Vrindavan parikrama
along with 250 other devotees by visiting the Madan Mohan Temple
near the Yamuna River. As we began walking down the dusty path,
I had the feeling that this year's parikrama would be full of nectar
and unlimited mercy.
It didn't take long for my expectations to come
true.
After our visit to Madan Mohan Temple, I had an
idea. "Let's make a quick trip to the Vraja Mohan Temple,"
I said to Dhruva. "I'd like to offer my respects to the Deity
of Narottam das Thakur."
Over the years, my disciples and I have helped
restore the Vraja Mohan Temple to it's original beauty. It is one
of the places in Vrindavan where I go for spiritual shelter and
inspiration.
We went to the temple and paid our respects to
the Deity. Then the pujari, a friend of mine, came up to me. "Maharaja,"
he said, "I have been waiting for you all year. I have a wonderful
surprise. Come to my room."
We entered his simple quarters, and Dhruva and
I sat on the floor. The pujari reached up onto a shelf and brought
down a small wooden box. He opened it slowly, took out a beautiful
Salagrama-sila, and put the sila in my hand.
I was speechless.
"We were digging the foundation for a new
guesthouse behind the temple," he said, "and we broke
into the remains of an ancient temple five meters underground. We
discovered this Salagrama in one of the rooms. I'm giving it to
you as gratitude for all the help you and your disciples have done
in restoring our temple."
Later, Dhruva and I walked back to where we were
staying, carefully holding the auspicious Deity. "This is only
our first day in Vrindavan," I said to Dhruva. "Just imagine
what other transcendental wonders await us."
Then I quoted a verse by Srila Rupa Goswami,
madhavya madhuranga kanana pada praptadhirajya
sriya
vrindranya vikasi saurabha tate tapiccha kalpa druma
nottapam jagad eva yasya bhajate kirti cchata cchayaya
citra tasya tavanghri sannidhi jusam kim va phalaptir nrinam
"O handsome, fragrant tamala desire tree blooming
in Vrindavan forest and embraced by the madhavi vine of the goddess
ruling this forest, O tree, the shade of whose glory protects the
world from a host of burning sufferings, what wonderful fruit do
people find at Your feet?"
[Srila Rupa Goswami, Utkalika Vallari, verse 66 ]
Two days later, I took the devotees on Govardhana
parikrama. We walked slowly, having bhajan and describing each holy
place as we stopped there along the path. When we arrived at the
sacred Govinda Kunda, where the surabhi cow bathed Lord Krsna with
her milk, I asked my Godbrother Chaturatma das to tell the pastime
to the devotees, and I went to sit alone some distance away on the
bank of the lake.
I was tired and hot, and the cool breeze off the
lake quickly refreshed me. The whole atmosphere was enchanting,
with white cows grazing nearby, green parrots flying about, and
peacocks in the trees. I was reflecting on the spiritual significance
of the place when suddenly a young village girl, around eight years
old, came and sat beside me without saying a word. She began gazing
out at the lake, just as I had been doing. We sat like that together,
just meditating on Govinda Kunda for well over half an hour. Once
in awhile I'd look over at her and smile. She'd acknowledge my gesture
by slightly tilting her head to the side, as Indian people do.
Finally she turned to me. "Baba," she
said and reached out with her closed hand, in a gesture of offering
me something. I put out my hand, and she put a beautiful Govardhana
sila in my palm.
She smiled sweetly. "Giriraja," she said
and ran off to play with her friends nearby.
The small sila was brown with a white triangle
in the middle. I looked at it for a long time. Then I walked the
few steps to the kunda and bathed the sila in the sacred water.
As I walked back to where the devotees were, I
thought about my good fortune. The best way to receive a Govardhana
sila is directly from a Vrajavasi, someone who lives in Vrindavan,
and I, without even asking, had been blessed with such a sila from
the hands of a young girl who lived at Govardhan Hill.
When I showed the sila to the devotees, everyone
was amazed.
But the desire tree of Vrindavan dhama had still
more fruit to offer.
The next day we continued our Govardhana parikrama
from where we had left off. When we reached Uddhava Kunda near the
end of the day, I was happy to see my old Vrajavasi friend, Giriraja
das. He has been the pujari at Uddhava Kunda for over 50 years.
We rushed forward to greet each other. As we hugged,
I meditated on my good fortune to be holding a pure Vaisnava like
him. He once told me that his father did Govardhana parikrama five
thousand times before conceiving him.
After we sat down, I spoke to the devotees for
over an hour about the transcendental importance of Uddhava Kunda.
Giriraja das sat patiently by my side. He does not know a word of
English, but his face would light up every time I said a name of
the Lord or one of his eternal associates, like Uddhava.
Just as I finished, he reached onto the altar,
picked up a large Govardhana-sila, and put it in my hand. Once again
I was surprised by mercy that had come of its own accord. I was
amazed to see that the sila very much resembled the smaller one
I had received earlier at Govinda Kunda.
"I have been worshiping him for thirty years,"
Giriraja das said. "He was given to me by an old sadhu who
lived in a small cave in Govardhana Hill, near Govinda Kunda."
As Giriraja das spoke, I looked again at the sila
in my hands. It seemed to become more and more precious.
All the devotees crowded around to see the sila.
Giriraj das took my hands and looked at me with tears in his eyes.
"I am an old man," he said. "I may die soon. I am
giving you the most cherished thing I own. I am giving you my life."
I could not find a way to reciprocate with his
kindness, so I fell down at his feet and offered obeisances for
a long time.
The next morning I started my worship of the two
Govardhana silas. Many devotees came throughout the day to look
at their beauty. I was thinking that I had received the pinnacle
of grace in the holy dhama.
But there was more to come.
Soon after our Govardhana parikrama, we visited
Uchagaon, the appearance place of Lalita devi, Srimati Radharani's
closest sakhi. For days I had prepared myself by reading about Lalita
devi - her personal qualities, her special mood, and her service
in Radha and Krishna's pastimes. As hundreds of us walked along
the dusty road leading to the hill where Lalita's village was, I
was thinking about my spiritual master, Srila Prabhupada. Only by
his grace could I even set foot in such a holy place.
As we were crossing a bridge over a small river,
I noticed two of our devotees speaking to a farmer on the other
side. The farmer was an older man, typical of many Vrajavasis -
dressed in a simple white dhoti, old shoes, a vest, and an old chaddar.
I thought it odd that the devotees were speaking with him for so
long.
"They certainly don't speak the local Vrajavasi
dialect," I thought, "and surely a poor farmer like him
doesn't speak English."
When I reached the group, I was surprised to hear
the farmer speaking English fluently. I listened for a moment and
then spoke to him. "Sir," I said, "how is it that
you speak such good English?"
He smiled. "When I was very young," he
said, "I had a desire to learn English."
After the other devotees left, I also discovered
that he was learned in the Vedic scriptures.
"Many of Radha and Krsna's pastimes took place
in this area," he said with a twinkle in his eye.
He extended his arm and pointed. "Up on the
hill is the place where Lalita devi appeared," he said. "She's
the leader of all the sakhis."
"And just over there" he continued, "the
gopis declared Srimate Radharani to be Queen of Vrindavan. And on
that side, just behind those trees, Radharani performed the marriage
ceremony of Lalita and Krsna."
He chuckled. "Radharani became so happy that
her veil fell off and landed on a rock," he said. "You
can still see the impression of that veil on the rock. It is called
the citra-vicitra sila."
"You know a lot," I said.
He laughed. "Everyone out here knows these
things," he said. "This is all we talk about."
His expression became serious. "But it's quickly
changing," he said. "With material progress and Western
influence, our culture here in Vrindavan is being negatively affected.
Now people are more interested in watching television and Bollywood
videos. Even out here."
"I'm sorry to hear that," I said.
I asked the farmer to go with us up the hill to
Uchagaon. Along the way we continued our discussion.
"I'm happy being a farmer," he said.
"With my knowledge of English, I could have had a good job
in a city, but that would have meant leaving Vrindavan. And this,
I would never do."
When our party reached the temple on top of the
hill, I gave a talk about Srimati Lalita devi, recounting a number
of her transcendental pastimes. My respected guest sat next to me
and seemed to enjoy the talk.
But as I spoke I felt increasingly embarrassed.
"This gentleman was born in Vrindavan," I thought, "and
he has been living here his whole life. He knows these things better
than I do. Who am I to speak in front of him?"
After my talk, the farmer and I sat down to take
prasadam together, and I noticed he was carrying a small bag.
"What's in the bag?" I asked.
He smiled, opened the bag, and took out an English
edition of Krsna Book.
"What?" I said. "Where did you ever
get that? This book was written by my spiritual master, Srila Prabhupada."
"I found it on a bus two years ago,"
he said. "I've read it seventeen times."
"Seventeen times?" I said.
"Oh yes" he said. "It's my favorite
book. It's all about Vrindavan."
He paused for a moment. "I've heard about
how your spiritual master went to the Western countries and delivered
so many people. I want to read more of his books, but I can't afford
them."
Here was more mercy for me: an opportunity to serve
a genuine Vrajavasi.
"If you give me your address," I said,
"I'll send you the entire collection of Srimad Bhagavatams."
"Please do," he said, "and in English."
"Of course," I said.
"But don't wait too long," he said.
"Why?" I asked.
"I'm over fifty now," he said. "I
want to start traveling."
"To all the holy places in India?" I
said.
"No,no," he said. "I plan to travel
throughout Vrindavan and share with everyone what I've learned from
your spiritual master."
"Really?" I said.
"Yes," he said. "If people in these
villages were to know his message, Vrindavan could be saved from
the onslaught of Western culture."
His bushy eyebrows went up. "Just as your
spiritual master went to the West and delivered so many people,"
he said, "so his teachings can restore Vrindavan's culture
to it's original glory."
As we parted, we hugged. "Thank you,"
I said. "Thank you for increasing my faith in the holy land
of Vrindavan and my spiritual master, and in his transcendental
books, as well."
Srila Prabhupada writes:
"Better you yourselves do as much as possible
to spread Krsna consciousness there by distribution of literature,
kirtana and prasadam. That will be as effective as my personally
coming. I am very keen on the distribution of my books and I am
very indebted to all of you for your untiring efforts to see that
every man and woman in America gets one of my books. If they simply
read one page, even if they do nothing else, they can become perfect.
[Letter to Hari Basara , April 20, 1974]
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